The X-T1 is ready

There were a couple of issues that plagued the release of the X-T1. The first that most already know about, was the light leak. The second, slightly less well know is this, the directional pad of buttons (or D-pad) used for menu selection was mushy, somewhat unresponsive, and quite unsatisfying to use.

I want to state early in this post that for any of you who have been reading my thoughts and comparisons of the X-T1, and are concerned about the crummy buttons, you can now safely buy a new X-T1 that has a much better D-pad than those found on the pre-production units, and the the initial run of manufacturing.1 If you’re buying from a store, you can easily tell if you’ve got a good one through the plastic baggy that the camera ships in, so if the dealer is reluctant to crack the Fujifilm sticker-seal, it’s no problem. Just test the buttons through the bag. If the buttons click like this, you’re good. As we know the light leak issue has also been addressed, and clicky buttons also seem to indicate light tightness.

Taking responsibility

Fujifilm came forward pretty quick, acknowledged the light leak, and offered a fix for owners with afflicted cameras. With the D-pad, they have been pretty tight-lipped about the problem. I can only surmise this is because the earliest D-pads, while crappy, do technically work. They’ve also been somewhat cagey about whether or not rumours about X-T1’s going in for service for the light leak, and coming back with a better D-pad are true.2 I’ve heard from at least two other owners that cameras sent in for light leak repair—with the D-pad noted on the bill of service—have come back with the D-pad marked as having “no fault.” This was also my experience. Again, while technically true as the buttons can be considered as not having “fault,” and work as originally designed, the fact remains that manufacturing has been quietly adjusted. X-T1’s are hitting the streets in high quantity with substantially better buttons on their back sides. This isn’t luck of the draw.

The bad news

Unfortunately some early adopters are being left out in the cold. I actually went to the extreme of selling my launch X-T1 privately,3 and buying another. For many, this won’t be worth the loss on the retail price, but it was for me. I can now use my X-T1 without mild feelings of contempt.

The good news

A silent tweak to manufacturing is better than no tweak at all, and that tweak means my biggest, and really only major gripe about the X-T1’s handling has now been addressed.

For those of you still waiting to place your order, now is the time. The more time I spend with this camera, the more I like it, and the more I feel it is the interchangeable Fuji body to own. I’m about to download and install the X-E2 firmware, but I’m confident the X-T1 will still be my primary body, rain or shine.

Fortunately, Fujifilm don’t have a history of releasing X-Series camera bodies with manufacturing issues like these. I don’t think we’re in a “wait and see” position when Fuji release their next camera (yet), but I’m hoping to see better QA with their next release.

  1. I’m not positive, but serial numbers of cameras with the poor D-pad seem to approximately coincide with up to and including the light leak range of serial numbers. Possibly a little beyond. For instance, my X-T1 that suffered both issues was had a starting serial number of 41A05. My new X-T1 is 41A09. My undestanding is ≥41A06 have no light leak.
  2. The official response I got was “Our technicians check all aspects of the camera.”
  3. For the record, I noted in my listing that it was a launch unit with a poor D-pad. Fortunately I was at least able to say it had no light leak.

X-T1 vs. X-E2 vs. X-Pro1

Fuji Fujifilm X-T1 vs X-E2 vs X-Pro1.jpg

Another complete overhaul. This time, it’s my X-T1 vs. X-E2 vs. X-Pro1 page. It is still getting a remarkable amount of traffic, so I figured I would remove the rumour content. I didn’t stop there though. I’ve added a bunch of comparison images, and written up some impressions on how the overall handling of each compares to the others. I also cleaned up the table, which can still be found towards the bottom of the page.

What is perhaps most interesting about these three cameras now is how well the X-Pro1 still holds up, and how the X-E2 has faded away slightly. It’s still an extremely good camera, but it might be the overlooked middle child of the Fujifilm family these days.

X-T1 vs. X-E2 vs. X-Pro1

X-T1 vs. X-E2 size

In my X-T1 review, I showed an image comparing the X-T1 with the 27mm f/2.8 to a X100S to demonstrate how small a package the X-T1 could be with the right lens attached. However, there’s been some confusion surrounding the size of the X-T1 compared to Fujifilm’s other cameras, particularly the X-E line.

No, the X-T1 is not approaching DSLR sizes. It’s essentially a slightly thicker X-E camera with a hump, and more of a grip. Here are some additional images to help illustrate the differnce.

Front view. Pretty much the same. Only the viewfinder is making the X-T1 a little taller.
Side view. The thickness is most apparently from this side as it include the X-T1’s more substantial grip. In other words, the worst case scenario.
Back view. Not a whole lot more to see here compared to the front view.
Top view. More thickness and the grip. 
Bottom view. 

Bottom view. 

Unless you have both cameras on hand, you’ll hardly notice a difference in size, if at all. You will notice a slight difference in weight, and a significant difference in feel. As mentioned in my review, the magnesium X-T1 feels better in the hand.

Fujifilm X-T1 Review

After over a week of use, a couple thousand frames, and well over 5,000 words, my Fujifilm X-T1 review has finally been posted. This is certainly my most comprehensive review to date, and I think one of the more comprehensive reviews to hit the web so far.

I dived deep into the nitty gritty of the camera, how it compares to Fuji’s other offerings, other mirrorless offerings and beyond.

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